The Azores: Remote Island Vacation

Vacationing on a remote island like those in the Azores can slow down life and help you escape from modern day worries. 

The dream of most people is to travel the world and gain new experiences. While most people are drawn to popular tourist destinations in big busy cities there is another type of travel that focuses on nature, culture, simplicity and isolation. Traveling to remote islands brings a special experience that is difficult to replicate in developed areas. These places are not remembered for their enormous architecture or historical importance, but for their steep cliffs, dormant volcanos, exotic plants and how their people have adapted to them. One of these destinations is São Jorge Island, located in Portugal’s Azores archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. I would recommend anyone to visit who is looking to slow down, spend some time away from crowded cities and wants to enjoy amazing views.

I was drawn to São Jorge island not just out of curiosity, but because my mother and grandparents are originally from the island. Growing up they always told stories of its traditions, landscape and way of life which made the place feel very familiar when I first visited as a child. São Jorge has a reputation of being a place stuck in time, less crowded because of its small population, and a great place for hiking because of its steep cliffs.

São Jorge is a long and narrow island about 34 miles long and its width is only about 5 miles at its widest point. The island doesn’t have the typical beaches covered with sand as it is made up of steep cliffs across both the north and south sides. Small villages are spread out across the island and many feel very quiet and absent of modern day distractions. São Jorge is known as the island of fajãs (pronounced “fah-ZHANS”). Fajãs are flat spots at the bottom of high and steep cliffs which were formed by lava flows or massive landslides. Most fajãs have very old fishing villages within them and some are only accessible by foot creating a true “stuck in time” feeling. Throughout the island you will also find that there are a lot of cows; this is because the main agricultural product of the island is a cheese which they make in a very specific way using raw cow milk. 

(Trail to Fajã de Penedia)

During my time there I spent a lot of time hiking down to the isolated villages along the coast. The trails were very rugged but also calming. The only things you will see are beautiful tropical plants along a red dirt path with the sound of waves crashing against the island's rocks. 

One moment that stood out during my trip was visiting Caldeira do Santo Cristo, the most famous fajã on the island. The path leading down to Santo Cristo was steep and narrow. As you walk along you find exotic plants growing out of the red dirt and open views of the ocean where you can see the islands of Graciosa and Terceira off in the distance. As I made my way down I could hear the waves getting louder and the landscape changing. At the bottom, the land opened up into a flat area with small houses and farmland that people still live in to this day. As I looked up from the bottom I could see how steep the cliffs were that I had just hiked down and it made me feel locked in a place stuck between an enormous wall of land and the sea. In front of the village's small church you can find a lagoon that was created from landslides. It is a piece of nature I could never have imagined; it’s so unique and that alone made this trip more impressive than any other I have taken previously.

(Plants along the Fajã de Alem trail)

A common theme about São Jorge is resilience and adaptation between the island and its people. The island's geography is shaped by volcanic activity, strong earthquakes and erosion but its people still find ways to live in these conditions. The fajãs represent this balance clearly. These natural events formed these flat spots at the bottom of cliffs and the people took it as an opportunity to build homes and grow food there. Another theme I noticed was simplicity. Life on the island is much slower and its people aren’t focused on modern conveniences. The cars are small, their TV’s are moderately sized and everyone’s favorite activity seems to be to just get together and have genuine conversations. 

Compared to standard tourist destinations, São Jorge stands out for its lack of a big city feel. When people think of vacation spots, cities like Barcelona, Cancun, or Rio de Janeiro come to mind. Although these are amazing places to visit, you couldn't compare the nature and views you find there to those of São Jorge. Even if you were to compare São Jorge with other islands in the Azores, São Jorge feels more isolated and quiet. For example, São Miguel, the biggest island in the Azores, has thermal hot springs, cultural performances, professional sports and pineapple farms, whereas São Jorge is focused on natural scenery and local life. I understand this may make it less appealing to some travelers, but to the right person it may make the experience feel more genuine and less influenced by tourism. In the main town of Velas you could find cafes offering food, coffee or alcoholic drinks. Foods like bacalhau (salt cod), caldo verde (potato and kale soup), and steaks are the typical dishes you would see in a restaurant. 

(Caldeira do Santo Cristo)

São Jorge Island represents a travel experience that is becoming less common. As other destinations around the world continue to develop and become more globalized, São Jorge will continue to have that slower pace and stronger connection to nature. This island proves that not all travel has to be fast paced and filled with activities but can rather be about observing and experiencing a place as it is. This destination is for those travellers who value simplicity over entertainment.

(Caldeira do Santo Cristo)

Ultimately, São Jorge offers a memorable and unique experience for those that would enjoy a getaway focused on simplicity. It may not have the same level of entertainment or comfort as other destinations, but it offers something different. The island’s natural beauty, quiet environment and strong connection between the land and its people make it stand out. It may not appeal to everyone, especially those looking for nightlife or luxury, but it is a place that will reward you in a different way. Tourism in the Azores is growing, and while São Jorge could someday change in the future it continues to be a destination that is authentic and worth experiencing.