A Weekend in Harbin Hot Springs

A review of Lake County’s hidden spa retreat.

Spring is finally in full swing now that the temperature is starting to drop again, which means relaxing in warm water is back on the table. If you’re looking for a quiet place to unwind in Northern California, Harbin Hot Springs is definitely worth a visit.

Harbin, located about an hour north of Napa Valley, in the small town of Middletown, has long been a retreat destination. The resort dates all the way back to 1856, when it was first developed by James M. Harbin. Over the years, it has built a reputation as a place where people come to relax, soak in natural hot spring water, and spend time away from the usual pace of everyday life.

Under new ownership, the resort is located in the middle of a forest, and you might be greeted by one of the resort cats, tasked with keeping your experience rodent-free. Before entering the pools, guests check in at the main entrance, where they can purchase a membership or a day pass. During my visit, the staff was very welcoming and helpful. They walked us through the check- in process and explained how the resort is laid out, along with some background on the history of the property. For first-time visitors, especially, this introduction helps make the experience feel less confusing.

The entrance area itself already sets the tone for the place. The gardens are clean and well-maintained, with plenty of plants and greenery surrounding the pathways. Walking through the property feels calm and intentional, almost like you are stepping into a retreat rather than a typical resort.

One of the things that stood out most to me was the variety of pools. There are eight different pools throughout the resort, and each one has its own purpose. Some are designed for quiet reflection, while others are more social or activity-focused. The Standard Pool is the first pool you’ll see when entering the main pool area. Unlike most of the other pools, this one is meant for swimming laps. It is a good option for people who still want to get some exercise while enjoying the hot spring environment. Right next to it is the Therapy Pool, which feels very different.

The Therapy Pool is partially enclosed by a large clamshell-shaped wall. Because of how it curves around the pool, it creates a more private and calming space. The enclosure almost makes it feel like its own little room within the larger pool area. The design gives it a womb-like feeling, which is probably why it is considered the therapy pool in the first place. It is a quieter spot compared to the more open pools.

Therapy Pool (Clamshell Pool)

If you keep walking further into the resort, you will eventually reach the hot and cold plunge pools. These are meant for people who want to stimulate circulation and help their muscles recover. Alternating between hot and cold water can be a shock at first, but it feels surprisingly good once you get used to it. This ended up being my favorite part of the visit. Going from the cold plunge to the hot pool makes your whole body feel refreshed and awake afterward.

The original plunge pools are unfortunately not wheelchair accessible. That said, the resort does provide ADA accessible hot and cold plunges nearby, which helps make the experience more accessible to a wider range of guests.

Connected to the hot plunge is the Meditation Pool. This area is designed for quiet soaking and reflection. Seats are built directly into the sides of the pool so visitors can sit comfortably in the warm water. Most people respect the quiet atmosphere here, which makes it one of the most peaceful areas of the property. If you are someone who enjoys meditating or simply sitting quietly for a while, this is probably the best pool to spend time in.

On the other hand, the Conversation Pool is meant for socializing. Guests can talk freely there, which creates a more relaxed and communal atmosphere. It is a good place to sit with friends or meet other people visiting the resort. Having both quiet and social spaces makes the overall experience feel balanced.

There is also food available on site at the Dancing Bear Cafe. The cafe focuses on organic and vegetarian-friendly meals, which fit with the health-focused atmosphere of the resort. Even if you normally are not looking for vegetarian food, the meals are satisfying, especially after spending a few hours soaking in the pools.

My overall experience, however, was not entirely smooth-sailing; I’d be remiss not to bring up that Harbin Hot Springs is located in a more rural part of California, and as a heavily tattooed and pierced Asian-American person, I got some weird comments and looks from a few older patrons. Fortunately enough, the staff and security had overheard these patrons and reassured me personally that these comments do not reflect their personal views and had reprimanded the guest on my behalf. Though I do not have much control over what the patrons say about me, I felt much safer knowing that the staff stood up for me and made sure that my experience was not tainted.

Overall, Harbin Hot Springs is a unique place that combines natural hot spring pools with a quiet mountain setting. Between the different pool experiences, the peaceful surroundings, and the friendly staff, it is easy to see why so many people keep coming back. Whether you are visiting for relaxation, recovery, or just a change of pace from the nearby Napa Valley wine tasting scene, it is a memorable place to spend the day.